Folks from Hawai‘i will tell you: plate lunch starts with two scoops rice and one scoop mac salad. Atop this starchy base, go ahead and pile on any protein-heavy fare you want, just don’t skimp on salt or grease. Glistening slices of beef teriyaki, crunchy chunks of chicken katsu, gristly chains of short rib, golden slabs of mahi mahi, viscous pools of sumptuous stew, fried heaps of hot dog, SPAM, or egg—it’s all game. If the mood strikes you, pour on a ladleful of brown gravy. Garnish with a little shredded cabbage, to add a touch of color and the illusion of nutritio…