Japanese American National Museum Store Online
Gathering of Joy: A History of Japanese American Obon Festivals and Bon Odori
Por Susan Osa
8 Jul 2006
Obon is an annual Japanese Buddhist festival that commemorates the dead. It is based on a Buddhist text which describes how a devout monk dances with joy upon successfully releasing his deceased mother’s spirit from the Realm of Hungry Ghosts. Today, participants dance to express their joy to be living happily and to honor loved ones who have passed away. Obon is also commonly known as the Festival of Lanterns, referring to the traditional lighting of the chochin (lanterns) at family shrines and gravesites.
Obon is held outdoors during the summer months—in the street or in temple parking lots and courtyards. Central to its celebration among Japanese Americans are the folk dances (Bon Odori) performed to music that includes the steady beat of a taiko. The taiko sits on a raised platform, or a yagura, and musicians use bachi, or drumsticks, on the taiko, to keep time for the Bon odori dancers. The guiding purpose of Bon Odori is to set aside the ego through unselfconscious dancing. Participation is customarily diverse—with young and old, formally trained and informally trained dancers, Japanese Americans and non-Japanese Americans.
Tracing its roots back to Japan, Bon Odori evolved out of the Odori Nembutsu, a popular Buddhist chant and dance from the late Heian (794 - 1185) and Kamakura (1185 - 1333) periods. By the 1600s, it became widespread and very popular in rural communities, providing a break from farm life. During the Meiji period (1868 – 1912), Bon Odori was banned, as it was thought to encourage immoral behavior, especially among the young. The ban was lifted during the Taisho period (1912 – 1926), and new songs and dances were created, combining Western instruments with traditional Japanese ones. In 1934, the song “Tokyo Ondo” became a hit.
In the United States, the first mention of Bon Odori seems to have been in 1905, in the Yamato Shimbun newspaper in Hawaii. Reverend Yoshio Iwanaga is credited with introducing Bon Odori on the mainland in 1930—first while visiting the Stockton Buddhist Temple (where he met his future wife), as well as during temple visits in Washington, California, Oregon, and Canada. The first recorded Bon Odori was reportedly held at the San Francisco Temple in 1931. In Los Angeles, the first Bon Odori is said to have occurred in 1933 or 1934, on Central Avenue between First and Jackson Streets in Little Tokyo, at the Los Angeles Hompa Hongwanji Betsuin.
After the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, Japanese Americans were incarcerated in camps. During this period many people emphasized their “American-ness,” but there was also a resurgence and maintenance of Japanese customs, and Buddhist communities in most camps organized Obon and Bon Odori. Following World War II, there was a surprisingly quick re-establishment of temple life, with Bon Odori resuming in Los Angeles in 1947. Rev. and Mrs. Iwanaga, who had been at Poston II, resettled in Watsonville, CA, where Rev. Iwanaga continued to teach Bon Odori at the local temple. Mrs. Iwanaga headed the BCA Music and Recording Department, which produced the first album of American Buddhist recordings of Gathas (Buddhist hymns set to Western-style music).
During the 1950s through the 1970s, Bon Odori became a traditional feature of Jodoshinshu temple Obon events, usually scheduled from late June through August. Dances were simplified, with a returned emphasis of Bon Odori as folk dances, with temple members now responsible for choosing and teaching the Bon Odori dances to their congregation. Bon Odori in the United States has a far stronger spiritual connection than it does in Japan today. Ironically, the Buddhist basis of Bon Odori is found almost exclusively in Jodoshinshu temples in the United States, and not in other sects of Buddhism, while the opposite is the case in Japan. TheJodoshinshu sect rejects the notion of “souls” returning at Obon, and thus, in Japan, Bon Odori is ignored. In the United States, the idea of souls being placated or welcomed is not connected with the idea of Obon in Japanese American Jodoshinshu temples.
Bon Odori emerged from the tradition of popular religious and folk music, with two styles of music: bushi, or folk songs, and ondo, folks songs influenced by the Goeika (religious chanting with bells). It was not until post-WWII that “ondo” was referenced to street dancing among some Japanese Americans. The song, “Bon Odori,” which is the first and last dance at most Bon Odoris, was written in 1934 by the Buddhist Music Association of the Honzan (mother temple) in Kyoto. The combination of folk melodies and dances form different types of Bon Odori, usually accompanied by instruments such as hand clapping, taiko (drum), atarigane, fue (flute), binsawa (wood rattle), and shamisen. Most dancers can be seen wearing a yukata, a lightweight, summer kimono, or a happi coat, a short kimono-like jacket.
While associated with Buddhism, Obon is celebrated and embraced by all, regardless of one’s religious background. Buddhist temples schedule their Obon events over the weekends from late June through August. These festivals are well attended, drawing large multi-generational and multi-racial crowds. Each temple’s festival is unique, but most generally feature carnival games with food booths serving traditional Japanese and Japanese American fare—sushi, udon, dango, teriyaki—as well as local cultural favorites, such as tacos and tamales in many Southern California celebrations.
* This article was originally published on Japanese American National Museum Store Online.
© 2006 Japanese American National Museum
15 comments on this post
obon in hawaii
food is a major draw for me, too, in addition to seeing people gathering to enjoy this cultural event and creating a sense of community. it's been awhile since i've gone to an obon in hawaii (particularly since i'm up here on the mainland). the last one was several years ago with some friends for the one on the north shore where small lanterns are released into the ocean...definite religious significance...very moving to watch the lanterns go out to sea.
from what i recall my mom saying about obons in hilo on the big island, everyone would go to obon; it was a social event for the youth back in her day. interesting to see it is going back to that here on the mainland.
oh, in case you're interested, here's an article from the honolulu star-bulletin about obon and lists date and locations for the whole season:
http://starbulletin.com/2006/06/24/features/story01.html
thanks for posting!
- thanks for the article link. i really enjoyed reading it, especially to hear about how it's been growing in popularity in Hawaii similar to how it is here in Southern California.
Obons
- You made a great comment about the diversity at Obon festivals, not only in terms of food but also people. I noticed at the Ogden UT obon festivals that about half of the attendees are other than JAs - lots of hapas, some married to JAs, and others from the community there for the fun activities and food.
for most of my life, i have
for most of my life, i have been to obons and had to work the corn booth, the game booth, wash dishes or bus tables. now that i'm a little older i can go to the other churches' obons and simply enjoy myself. not that i didn't have fun at my own obon, but being an outsider who doesnt have a shift in 20 minutes allows you to take in the atmosphere more. You can appreciate all the different types of people, the distinctly JA culture and of course the food. i feel like obons provide such a sense of pride for the community. you can come to an obon and take part in a great pasttime with people who understand your heritage and kind of showcase it to anyone else.
Memory of Obon
This is a section from an ongoing MSS on life in Amache.
Our ancestors blessed us from heaven and to honor them we danced in the streets in the heat of summer at the O-Bon Festival. When I was five or six my mother made a blue silk kimono for the occasion.
"The obi is too tight. I'm suffocating," I complained.
"Gaman."
"It's too tight. I can't breathe." The obi pushed against my underarms like a vise.
"Stand still. I need to make the bow."
"I can't. I can't."
Eventually my mother relented. She used a simple soft sash and let it dangle. Yet to come was the trial of the Obon dance. I tried to keep pace with the drums and the flute: step, step, back, step, step, back. I concentrated but it was hard to remember which dance included the kachi kachi or the fan, which steps came where. I circled with the dancers, eyeing the girl in front of me, hoping she remembered the steps. We danced and appeased the dead and wished them peace.
An O-Bon Festival was held each summer in Amache.
"I don't want to dance any more," I told my mother.
"It's OK," she replied. "It's too hot, anyway."
I was surprised. Before the war O-Bon was so important. She invested in new kimonos and relatives in Japan sent accessories unavailable in the United States---a miniature purse to tuck into the obi, a hair ornament with bells, a special mirror.
We stood in the blazing sun and watched the dancers. My mother cooled herself with a sensu, a folding fan, and looked content.
thanks for posting!
Thanks so much for posting this. I really enjoyed it. What is an 'MSS'?
any plans to publish?
Do you have any plans to eventually publish it? It sounds like it's a work of fiction? I'd love to hear more about the project.
Publish?
This excerpt is part of a longer essay/story. They're all based on incidents that happend to me 60 or so years ago and are meant to accompany some paintings I've done about SA and Amache. I have a professor looking into possible publication but with all the material now out on the relocation centers I'm not sure anyone would be interested in yet one more.
San Jose Obon
The first time I danced in the Obon was when I was about two-three years old. I still have the silk kimono my Bachan brought from Japan that I wore for that first Obon. Forty-eight years later, I still dance. During my early teen years, I thought I was too cool to dance and did not participate for about three years. When I was about sixteen years old, my Bachan encouraged me to dance again. She had been in frail health and wanted to see me dance. We sat her down on the curb near the San Jose Buddhist church and I made sure I was on the outside circle so she could see me. As I would come near her, the current song would end and we would change the rotation so I would be going the opposite way. During the evening's performance, she never was able to see me dance. She died later that year. Since then, I have danced every year for her and my ancestors. I feel her presence as well as my late Mother's presence when I dance in the Obon. I feel this connection to them, the community and pride in being a Japanese-American Sansei.
what a wonderful connection
Thanks so much for sharing your obon story. It's so sad that your grandmother wasn't able to see you dance that last time, but it's wonderful that you continue to dance in honor of her and your ancestors.
I've never been to San Jose's obon. Is it very big? I've been to the Mountain View obon a couple of times. My brother-in-law lives there and we've been fortunate that a couple of our visits have coincided with their obon.
I'm eagerly awaiting obon season this year. My sister moved back to LA recently with her husband who's from Northern California and this will be the first time we can all go "obon-hopping" all together.
Last year, we had our Discover Nikkei intern go to a bunch of So Cal obon festivals to document them through photos. She created 5 Nikkei Album collections about them. Here's a list of Obon-related collection in Nikkei Album if you want to check out the photos >>
San Jose Obon Odori
The San Jose Obon festival is pretty big. There were a record 914 dancers last year on the Saturday, and a little less on the Sunday. They announced that the SJ Obon is one of the biggest in participation. Thanks for the Obon album link!
wow!
That's amazing. Must be pretty incredible to see and be a part of. If you have photos to share, would love to see sometime.




ct
vkm



obons
I have to admit that I mostly go to obons for the food...but, also for the sense of community. Although my family's religion is Buddhism, we don't really practice it actively. It's mostly something that we know of through funerals and memorial services. Some of my aunts & uncles are more actively involved, especially with the Gardena Buddhist Church, and so as a result, growing up, I only remember going to their obons on some occasions.
Most of my obon experiences have been more recent. Since working in Little Tokyo in Downtown Los Angeles, I started occasionally attending the J-Town obon festivals - Nishi & Zenshuji, and Higashi. I think I went to the Koyasan one once before they stopped having them. Since moving to Gardena, I try to go every year if possible. I happened to be in the Bay Area one year during the Mountainview Obon, so my husband and I went. I think we've gone twice now.
What I find really interesting is the local influences - particularly with the food. Going to the Southern California obons, I'm used to seeing tacos and tamales sold alongside sushi, udon, and teriyaki. I was very disappointed to find no tamales with chili up at the Mountainview obon. In fact, I think the last time we went was the first time they had spam musubi...and they sold out!
Aside from the food, it's also great to see such diverse people of different ages/generations and ethnicities attending. They have really become community events that even draw non-Buddhist attendees...even in the ondo dancing! It seems that obon celebrations in the U.S. have become more cultural than religious, and their ability to draw multigenerational participants is very encouraging to see. I also see people who attend multiple obons every year. I know of people who try to attend as many as they can each year, sometimes traveling even to San Diego and Las Vegas. It's great to go the obons and see familiar faces.
I wonder sometimes if obons outside of California have evolved similarly. I would love to hear about the obons from other areas!