Aside from "sushi," "tempura," "yakisoba," and "yakitori," which were already somewhat well known around the world before the Japanese food boom began, the words "onigiri" and "dorayaki" are now often seen written in the Roman alphabet. Not only are they used for Japanese food ingredients and menus, but recently they are also being used in store and company names to create a familiar and memorable impression.
In recent years in South America, it has become common to see this kind of romanized Japanese being used without any awkwardness, not only in Japanese communities but also at events for non-Japanese people in general. T-shirts with meaningless Japanese words and phrases are still sold all over the world, but recently there have been many products that use Japanese words matched with Spanish or Portuguese.
The owners of a Japanese-Japanese restaurant in Lima, who had previously participated in Peru's largest gourmet fair called " MISTURA (meaning a mix of creativity and diversity)," held their own gourmet event called " GOCHISO PERU " in November 2017. The event was planned by a prestigious high-end restaurant called " MAIDO 1 ," as well as other food importing companies and Japanese organizations, and was a kind of festival-like event that included dancing, singing, and cultural events.
In Peru, the category of "Comida Nikkei" cuisine, which uses Japanese cooking methods and ingredients, has already become widespread. Celebrity chef Gastón Acurio , who is a gourmet goodwill ambassador for the Republic of Peru, also serves dishes such as marinated raw fish and flounder simmered in soy sauce as "Comida Nikkei" to customers at his own restaurant. He trained in Mediterranean cuisine in Barcelona, Spain, and, influenced by a Japanese chef in Lima with whom he has been friends for many years, he has added a significant amount of Japanese ideas to Peruvian representative dishes that use raw seafood, such as ceviche and tiradito.
There are currently many Japanese restaurants in Lima, and in recent years the number of ramen and Japanese sweets shops has also increased. One of the most interesting is Yogashi Patisserie , located on the corner of the main street in the San Porha district, which serves Japanese-style cakes. The pastry chef is Carlos Yanaura , a third-generation Nikkei who spent over 10 years training at a Western-style pastry shop in Nagoya, where he also acquired knowledge of Japanese sweets. At first glance, the cakes sold at this shop may look like Japanese sweets due to their design and size, but they are in fact fine Western sweets. The shop opened in 2015 and is now thriving, receiving orders for parties and gatherings from individuals and corporations.
Many of the participants and customers at both "GOCHISO PERU" and "Yogashi Patisserie" are non-Japanese. It seems that the fact that the names of the events and stores are somewhat Japanese is conveyed. The dance groups "Wadaiko," "Eisa," and "Ryukyu," who performed at "GOCHISO PERU," also use Japanese written in the Roman alphabet, but this does not feel out of place. There is also a video production company in Lima called "ONIGIRI Producciones," which is run by Japanese people, but this business has nothing to do with onigiri.
A similar trend can be seen in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Typical examples are " AMO MI MATCHA (literally, I love my matcha) [6] " and " YOSHI YOSHI (Yoshiyoshi) [7] ," which have been invited not only to events in the Japanese community but also to local festivals. "AMO MI MATCHA" is a food stall selling matcha-flavored snacks and drinks run by a Japanese couple. It is surprising that matcha flavor is so popular among local non-Japanese people. Also, in the upscale residential area of Buenos Aires, a store called " ANATANI (for you) [8] " opened a year and a half ago, offering healthy dishes such as gluten-free sandwiches, mini pizzas, and Japanese bento boxes.
Most of the customers at each store are non-Japanese, so some customers don't even know that the business name is Japanese, let alone what it means. Since the sellers are Japanese, they gradually come to the stores knowing that it's of Japanese origin, but in this day and age, they don't feel any discomfort.
These services are responsive to the needs and tastes of modern consumers, but 30-40 years ago, it was unimaginable that such Japanese things would be accepted by the general public. I remember that my non-Japanese classmates would not eat "Dorayaki" or "Manju" because they contained black bean paste.
The same can be said about events. The names "Nihon Matsuri" (Japanese festival) and "Bon-odori" (Bon-odori) are used, and no translation is included. Now everyone knows that "MATSURI" is equivalent to a festival, and even if people don't understand the purpose of "Bon-odori," they participate wearing yukata, dance to the soft rhythm, and seem to think that they can enjoy it. And people come there for the Japanese food and drinks, folk crafts, ingredients, and decorations.
As the Romanized Japanese language has come to be widely used outside the Japanese community, Japanese people involved in these business and cultural activities will need to understand its true nature better. Many customers and participants, even non-Japanese, have a deep understanding of Japanese culture and come with high expectations. Furthermore, Japanese people who plan these events will need to become more professional, and Japanese organizations will need to improve their management and coordination capabilities in order to be able to meet various needs.
Thanks to the global influence of Cool Japan, Nikkei communities in various countries are getting more attention than ever before. It is also true that the spread of the Romanized Japanese language has made them familiar to local residents. In order to continue to be liked by many people, both as a business and as a non-profit, it may be necessary to professionalize to the point where the two are indistinguishable. As a result, the nature of Nikkei organizations will have to be discussed more in the future, and there will surely be a greater demand than ever for mobility, cost consciousness, and strengthened cooperation with non-Nikkei and local organizations.
Notes:
1. This restaurant is owned by Mitsuharu Tsumura , who is now one of the faces of Peru. The restaurant has received high praise worldwide.
2. Atrid & Gastón , a restaurant run by Mr. and Mrs. Acurio
© 2018 Alberto J. Matsumoto
